Art Brazee, Owen Garland, and myself started this route but bailed high up for a variety of reasons (late start, flu, weather, routefinding, alien attack (okay, there were no aiens)). Owen led the first 3 slabby pitches without putting ONE SINGLE piece of pro in. The three of us were roped up but totally soloing. Finally, when he got to the giant undercling he put about twenty-seven pieces in to make himself (and us) feel better. We went up and right to the corner, which I led (the 5.8 crux). Then I led up the rotten gully, but I never knew when I was supposed to break left, and I ended up at the top of that gully where the Kain route intersects. At that point, for all of those reasons we bailed down the Kain route. Later, in 2003, I did the Kain route from the bottom, which was awesome. I can't say that I recommend this route because of that poorly protected, if protected at all, lower section (although it is easy) and that horrible gully (bring your helmet and riot shield), but the 5.8 corner is very nice and maybe worth the trouble. Plus, the upper section, which is the same as the Kain route, is absolutely amazing - except the routefinding can be tricky. The final 2 pitches of 5.7 crack next to the big ugly chimney (I think it's the Perren variation) are definitely the highlight of the day.
Jim Voss and I climbed this route in one long day. We simul-climbed the first few poorly protected pitches to the base of the crux corner system. On the low angle buttress higher up the rock was very loose, so Jim, who was following, was showered with debris. We did got off route above this section and had to rappel down a pitch. The final 5.6/7 pitch (the Perrin variation, I think) is fun and vertical. A great climb.
chrisferro - Nov 12, 2007 11:07 am
1996 AttemptArt Brazee, Owen Garland, and myself started this route but bailed high up for a variety of reasons (late start, flu, weather, routefinding, alien attack (okay, there were no aiens)). Owen led the first 3 slabby pitches without putting ONE SINGLE piece of pro in. The three of us were roped up but totally soloing. Finally, when he got to the giant undercling he put about twenty-seven pieces in to make himself (and us) feel better. We went up and right to the corner, which I led (the 5.8 crux). Then I led up the rotten gully, but I never knew when I was supposed to break left, and I ended up at the top of that gully where the Kain route intersects. At that point, for all of those reasons we bailed down the Kain route. Later, in 2003, I did the Kain route from the bottom, which was awesome. I can't say that I recommend this route because of that poorly protected, if protected at all, lower section (although it is easy) and that horrible gully (bring your helmet and riot shield), but the 5.8 corner is very nice and maybe worth the trouble. Plus, the upper section, which is the same as the Kain route, is absolutely amazing - except the routefinding can be tricky. The final 2 pitches of 5.7 crack next to the big ugly chimney (I think it's the Perren variation) are definitely the highlight of the day.
Sam Page - Feb 14, 2006 4:41 pm
Gmoser RouteJim Voss and I climbed this route in one long day. We simul-climbed the first few poorly protected pitches to the base of the crux corner system. On the low angle buttress higher up the rock was very loose, so Jim, who was following, was showered with debris. We did got off route above this section and had to rappel down a pitch. The final 5.6/7 pitch (the Perrin variation, I think) is fun and vertical. A great climb.