Welcome to the club…. blood and gore, broken bones and more is the price you pay to
have true FUN. You did overlook one more thing that could have gone wrong. The flying rock didn’t cut your rope. I use double ropes when I go Alpine climbing. I am so glad that this story turned out this way…
See ya
Guyzo
I feel for ya, Diggler, and I was very relieved to hear that things turned out all right. I wish you a full and speedy recovery.
But your report left me with a question: unless I missed something, you didn't say much about how and why you ended up climbing the northeast side when you were planning on staying in the immediate vicinity of the southeast buttress. You briefly indicated that it turned out that way, but didn't analyze how and why that occurred. To my mind the answers to that would make an excellent/educational/valuable improvement to your already well told story.
Hey Eric, we started out at what seemed to be an obviously used starting spot on the buttress & started going up. Simplifying the guidebooks' general descriptions of 'there is no distinct line on Cathedral, but a bunch of different ones that end up in the same place,' I just started climbing, assuming that our line would meet up with the 'standard' one(s) (if it weren't to begin with) sooner or later. We just ended up piecing together various lines that led us up & right until we were on the NW face. At our last belay, I considered trying to traverse to our L, crossing over a vague ridge that separates the NE face from the standard SE buttress, to access the normal line. Instead I just decided to go straight up, as it seemed like we were quite near the summit anyway & there seemed to be a logical sequence that we could piece together.
Nicely written trip report. The invaluable experience you gained will no doubt make you a better/smarter climber. Thanks for sharing the experience. You never know but it might save the life of someone who reads this and learns from it.
Thanks, one intent of this was to try to raise awareness that loose rock is possible on even peaks w/ the most bomber of rock (esp. if one gets off-route)- even to myself :).
Hey Dirk,
I cant believe I missed this trip report, I was out of the country for a while starting just about when you posted it...
What a crazy story! I cant believe the rock hit your head. I'm really really glad to know that this accident wasnt worse. That pic is gnarly! you injuries were worse than you let on. It'll be fun to talk with you in the future to see if this affects your confidence (I know mine is sorely shaken).
It was good to meet you at the gym, hopefully we'll run into each other again and maybe do some climbing in the future... with helmets!
cheers - jeff
Nice to meet you at the gym too, Jeff. Glad to see you're (mostly) recovered from your injuries. While I understand the decrease in confidence associated with rockfall (esp. after last Sat), I think it's important that the fear (psychological)aspect eventually subside, while the prudence gained from experience remains. Easier said than done sometimes! We'll have to tie in & go on a trip sometime, agreed.
Guyzo - Aug 22, 2006 3:35 am - Hasn't voted
Lucky YouWelcome to the club…. blood and gore, broken bones and more is the price you pay to
have true FUN. You did overlook one more thing that could have gone wrong. The flying rock didn’t cut your rope. I use double ropes when I go Alpine climbing. I am so glad that this story turned out this way…
See ya
Guyzo
Diggler - Aug 22, 2006 6:59 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Lucky YouThanks, Guy. The possibility of rope failure occurred to me as well- forgot to mention it, I guess.
myles - Aug 22, 2006 6:27 pm - Hasn't voted
Good job reporting and returning safeSorry about the accident, but glad you came out okay, and nice job on getting back to safety on your own.
Thanks, too, for an object lesson for us all--there are a lot here who view Cathedral's SE butt and such as exhilirating, but easy days out.
Well done, DIggler.
Diggler - Aug 24, 2006 11:06 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Good job reporting and returning safeThanks, Myles.
Eric O - Aug 23, 2006 4:24 am - Hasn't voted
QuestionI feel for ya, Diggler, and I was very relieved to hear that things turned out all right. I wish you a full and speedy recovery.
But your report left me with a question: unless I missed something, you didn't say much about how and why you ended up climbing the northeast side when you were planning on staying in the immediate vicinity of the southeast buttress. You briefly indicated that it turned out that way, but didn't analyze how and why that occurred. To my mind the answers to that would make an excellent/educational/valuable improvement to your already well told story.
Diggler - Aug 23, 2006 3:24 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: QuestionHey Eric, we started out at what seemed to be an obviously used starting spot on the buttress & started going up. Simplifying the guidebooks' general descriptions of 'there is no distinct line on Cathedral, but a bunch of different ones that end up in the same place,' I just started climbing, assuming that our line would meet up with the 'standard' one(s) (if it weren't to begin with) sooner or later. We just ended up piecing together various lines that led us up & right until we were on the NW face. At our last belay, I considered trying to traverse to our L, crossing over a vague ridge that separates the NE face from the standard SE buttress, to access the normal line. Instead I just decided to go straight up, as it seemed like we were quite near the summit anyway & there seemed to be a logical sequence that we could piece together.
Matthew Holliman - Aug 23, 2006 10:57 am - Hasn't voted
WowThat's quite a tale, Dirk. I'm glad you're (mostly) OK.
Diggler - Aug 24, 2006 11:05 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: WowThanks, Matthew.
Alpinist - Aug 23, 2006 2:25 pm - Voted 10/10
Valuable lesson learnedNicely written trip report. The invaluable experience you gained will no doubt make you a better/smarter climber. Thanks for sharing the experience. You never know but it might save the life of someone who reads this and learns from it.
Diggler - Aug 24, 2006 11:05 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Valuable lesson learnedThanks, one intent of this was to try to raise awareness that loose rock is possible on even peaks w/ the most bomber of rock (esp. if one gets off-route)- even to myself :).
Felsberg - Sep 20, 2006 4:39 am - Voted 10/10
wowHey Dirk,
I cant believe I missed this trip report, I was out of the country for a while starting just about when you posted it...
What a crazy story! I cant believe the rock hit your head. I'm really really glad to know that this accident wasnt worse. That pic is gnarly! you injuries were worse than you let on. It'll be fun to talk with you in the future to see if this affects your confidence (I know mine is sorely shaken).
It was good to meet you at the gym, hopefully we'll run into each other again and maybe do some climbing in the future... with helmets!
cheers - jeff
Diggler - Sep 20, 2006 4:35 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: wowNice to meet you at the gym too, Jeff. Glad to see you're (mostly) recovered from your injuries. While I understand the decrease in confidence associated with rockfall (esp. after last Sat), I think it's important that the fear (psychological)aspect eventually subside, while the prudence gained from experience remains. Easier said than done sometimes! We'll have to tie in & go on a trip sometime, agreed.
Chris C - Oct 26, 2006 11:12 pm - Hasn't voted
Jeeezez!!!I free solo'd the regular route on Aug 3rd summitting 2 of the 4 summit blocks! *shrudders!*