I'm not sure the Farquhar route is aka SW Chute -- if it is, then this is confusing, because the main "SW Chute" route in the area is the one on Disappointment, and is 2 gullys over from the Farquhar gully. As far as I can tell in Secor's guidebook, what he calls the "SW chute" refers to the chute going up to Disappointment Peak. I climbed this chute, and it's probably quite similar to the Farquhar route in terms of loose rock, but it has 4 technical chockstone sections that most people rappel, if not rope up for ascending as well (and of course, it summits on Disappointment Peak, not Middle Palisade).
This is true. There is in general a ton of confusion regarding these routes and the west side. I'm not familiar with the route you're talking about, but I am pretty sure that is the actual Southwest chute. Secor's guidebook has the routes labeled as you say, but in Porcella and Burns' "Climbing California's 14'ers", they describe this route and name it the Southwest Chute. Lots of confusing stuff.
lavaka - Oct 8, 2009 4:40 pm - Voted 10/10
SW ChuteI'm not sure the Farquhar route is aka SW Chute -- if it is, then this is confusing, because the main "SW Chute" route in the area is the one on Disappointment, and is 2 gullys over from the Farquhar gully. As far as I can tell in Secor's guidebook, what he calls the "SW chute" refers to the chute going up to Disappointment Peak. I climbed this chute, and it's probably quite similar to the Farquhar route in terms of loose rock, but it has 4 technical chockstone sections that most people rappel, if not rope up for ascending as well (and of course, it summits on Disappointment Peak, not Middle Palisade).
Wobby - Oct 16, 2009 1:36 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: SW ChuteThis is true. There is in general a ton of confusion regarding these routes and the west side. I'm not familiar with the route you're talking about, but I am pretty sure that is the actual Southwest chute. Secor's guidebook has the routes labeled as you say, but in Porcella and Burns' "Climbing California's 14'ers", they describe this route and name it the Southwest Chute. Lots of confusing stuff.
lavaka - Oct 17, 2009 12:36 pm - Voted 10/10
Re: SW Chuteupdated page looks great!