any practice falling, but I know that after I took a fall on a climb in Owens Gorge, Hungover, doing the same section felt a lot easier. Then I realized that falling on the first try must have been psychological and not physical. I have to mention that my experience was on sport climbs that were steep and, except for one time, I didn't hit anything while falling. The one time that I did hit a hold on the way down made me limp for two years.
Thanks for the comment Marc! Yes, all those bold-face disclaimers are because this idea makes sense in some situations and not at all in others. Maybe all I can say is that a little bit goes a long way, but fundamentally, stressing the rope system in a gravity-based environment will always have elements of uncertainty.
Wow, but I'm talking about an experience where you plan for and initiate falls on solid gear. Maybe that is a different mindset than when you fell 6 meters? I definitely agree than an unplanned 6 meter fall could be unnerving! A way to overcome it might be go to the gym and practice "clip/drop," that is clip in to an anchor and jump off. This is a very short fall. Keep doing that all the way up the route, possibly making the falls a bit longer. But don't rush it...you'll end up frozen again! :)
Marcsoltan - Apr 14, 2011 11:24 am - Voted 10/10
Never done...any practice falling, but I know that after I took a fall on a climb in Owens Gorge, Hungover, doing the same section felt a lot easier. Then I realized that falling on the first try must have been psychological and not physical. I have to mention that my experience was on sport climbs that were steep and, except for one time, I didn't hit anything while falling. The one time that I did hit a hold on the way down made me limp for two years.
mvs - Apr 14, 2011 11:54 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Never done...Thanks for the comment Marc! Yes, all those bold-face disclaimers are because this idea makes sense in some situations and not at all in others. Maybe all I can say is that a little bit goes a long way, but fundamentally, stressing the rope system in a gravity-based environment will always have elements of uncertainty.
mvs - Apr 14, 2011 8:39 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Fun...Maybe I'll join you! :)
gabr1 - May 23, 2011 4:13 am - Hasn't voted
Interesting experienceI have the same fears at times. But last time i fell about 6 meters, it didn't really help, actually it froze my climbing for some time
mvs - May 23, 2011 6:52 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Interesting experienceWow, but I'm talking about an experience where you plan for and initiate falls on solid gear. Maybe that is a different mindset than when you fell 6 meters? I definitely agree than an unplanned 6 meter fall could be unnerving! A way to overcome it might be go to the gym and practice "clip/drop," that is clip in to an anchor and jump off. This is a very short fall. Keep doing that all the way up the route, possibly making the falls a bit longer. But don't rush it...you'll end up frozen again! :)