Approach
This route is on the Cerberus Wall and right accross the shuttle bus stop at Big Bend. From the stop walk just a short distnace down canyon and cross the road. Take the trail with a climber sign on it up to the wall and turn left until the base of the route. This route is just to the right of
Fathedral.
Route Description
Climbing this route you will feel like you are at Indian Creek. It is a superb thight hands crack. Turning the roof is the crux of the route. It is best to continue jamming instead of liebacking the roof move, even though the jams become quite insecure at and above the roof. The route is rated 5.10 to the first set of bolt anchors. If you choose to go to the second set of bolts higher up the rating is 5.11. This route and many of its neighbors get into shade in the afternoon.
Essential Gear
Four #2 BD camalots are nice to have, two #1 camalots. You can use one #3 camalot right underneath the roof (better not to use it as it gets in your way). Maybe a 0.75 camalot at the start. One single 60m rope is sufficient.
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