Page Type:
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Route |
|---|---|
Route Type:
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Trad Climbing |
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Rock Difficulty:
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5.12c (YDS) |
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Number of Pitches:
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1 |
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Grade:
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II |
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Overview
Equinox can be thought of the Rubicon of the 5.12's or is it that Rubicon is the Equinox of the 5.10's. It is recognized as one of the classic hard cracks in the park. When it was first done (with chocks) it was rated 5.13a but with the advent of cams its has been re-rated at 5.12c. While the finger jamming is not technical the feet are.Getting There
Take Sheeps Pass Road until reaching Geolog Tour Road. Turn down Geology Tour Road for about 3.5 miles reaching an indistinct turnout (as of Oct 2007) (add GPS Coordinates here). From the turnout walk 0.73 miles west of Geology Tour Road aiming for a rock formation with a distinct very large block sitting on top of the rock formation. Skirt around the backside (west facing)raching the route lying on the southwest face of the formations sitting up high. Scramble through a short talus field reaching the base of the route.Route Description
Starting on the belay ledge, step across and mantle up on a ledgee/flake. Thin finger jams (blue -0.3-camalots) for about 20ft, favoring people with small fingers. Feet can be found using the edge of the crack and small chips on the left side of the crack. Here the crack opens up a bit for good fingers (grey -0.4- camalots) but the angle kick backs towards slightly overhanging for about 15-20ft). Feet can be found on the left side of the crack on microedges. After about 20ft the angle eases up and the crack takes a sharp angle to the left leading to the top of the formation. The crack continues back across the top left edge of the formation whereas you'll need to angle slightly right. Studs from buttonhead bolts can be found on the right side at the top but are useless. 2 bomber bolts (1/2") can be found about 10ft down on the face but difficult to get to without using the bolt on the back of the formation to lower down to them. A single bomber bolt(1/2") can be found on the back of the formation to rappel off a short step leading to talus and a scramble back to the base, or to lower to the TR bolts for which you can retrieve your gear on route.Essential Gear
55-60m ropeblue and green aliens
a couple blue and grey (0.3 to 0.4) microcamalots
purple and green camalot (0.5 and 0.75)