Climbed this many times over the 35 years or so I've been climbing at Josh. I say this is classic Joshua Tree since it is a great climb, but may feel sandbagged for those unfamiliar with Josh ratings and who aren't competent crack climbers.
Let me make an important note: while you indicated on your photo that climbing up to the crack from the right is unprotected, it is very easy to protect this climb. If you want to read pages and pages of flame and venom, look at mountainproject's page for this climb. However, if you're uncomfortable climbing trad at this grade, you can sew this climb up by climbing straight up the crack, rather than climbing the apron on the right. The start of this route has seen a number of accidents due to the unprotected nature of the right hand start. However, those were typically from climbers rather new to trad climbing and pushing their limits on this particular climb.
caysedave - Nov 5, 2013 12:50 am Date Climbed: Dec 11, 2012
DC
Second time leading.
SKI - Jun 13, 2011 8:46 am Date Climbed: Jun 6, 2011
JT Break in
Pretty fun route. You do get a small cam placement in the blank section near the ground.
fatdad - Nov 25, 2015 2:36 pm
Classic JT routeClimbed this many times over the 35 years or so I've been climbing at Josh. I say this is classic Joshua Tree since it is a great climb, but may feel sandbagged for those unfamiliar with Josh ratings and who aren't competent crack climbers.
Let me make an important note: while you indicated on your photo that climbing up to the crack from the right is unprotected, it is very easy to protect this climb. If you want to read pages and pages of flame and venom, look at mountainproject's page for this climb. However, if you're uncomfortable climbing trad at this grade, you can sew this climb up by climbing straight up the crack, rather than climbing the apron on the right. The start of this route has seen a number of accidents due to the unprotected nature of the right hand start. However, those were typically from climbers rather new to trad climbing and pushing their limits on this particular climb.
caysedave - Nov 5, 2013 12:50 am Date Climbed: Dec 11, 2012
DCSecond time leading.
SKI - Jun 13, 2011 8:46 am Date Climbed: Jun 6, 2011
JT Break inPretty fun route. You do get a small cam placement in the blank section near the ground.
Deb - Feb 2, 2011 4:51 pm
First JT ClimbNothing spectacular about it, but it made my daughter cry. ?