Disaster Factor : Photos, Diagrams & Topos : SummitPost

Comments

rpc - Mar 14, 2007 12:32 am - Voted 10/10

cool chimney

can you protect the right crack instead?
Nice shot & cool looking route.

Martin Cash - Mar 14, 2007 12:49 am - Hasn't voted

Re: cool chimney

Thanks man. Yeah, you can protect the right crack until the 2nd chockstone. It doesn't feel pure but is safer. That Big Pro placement is fairly marginal. Maybe walking a #9 Valley Giant cam would be better. Kinda stiff for a 5.8 just above where he is. The chimney above takes aliens deep in the back.

We also TRed Jihad again and lead the usual stuff. Good times.

pvalchev - Mar 15, 2007 12:15 am - Voted 10/10

Re: cool chimney

Looks like an advertisement for double ropes to me!! ;) Very cool looking routes on that wall, have to make it there sometime...

Martin Cash - Mar 15, 2007 4:47 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: cool chimney

Yeah, the routes over there are all pretty nice. You shouldn't need doubles for this climb. You belay from the top of the wall, which is about 90 feet up, so a 50 meter is too short, if rapping off one of the anchors up there.

pvalchev - Mar 15, 2007 6:18 pm - Voted 10/10

Re: cool chimney

I just meant that with doubles you can protect both cracks with no rope drag (otherwise I imagine he had to put a long sling when putting that right piece).

Glad to see this picture got the attention it deserves!