AlexeyD - Aug 1, 2013 5:45 pm Date Climbed: Jul 23, 2013
awesome!
Long, but easy and "friendly" climb. Did not quite follow the route description here, but instead got on the ridge slightly higher than the indicated notch, in order to avoid sections of snow along the ridge and stay on rock. This resulted in 2 very easy, albeit somewhat loose, pitches to the summit. Descended by rappelling the south side. Note: a single 60-m rope does NOT get you all the way to the glacier on the south side in one rap! Luckily, there is an intermediate anchor available. Alternatively, you can do one rap from the summit to a prominent ledge about 25 feet below the intermediate anchor, and then downclimb what looks like loose 3rd-4th class terrain on descender's left to the glacier. We opted for the former, so cannot vouch for how that would go, but it looked doable, if a bit unpleasant.
AlexeyD - Aug 1, 2013 5:45 pm Date Climbed: Jul 23, 2013
awesome!Long, but easy and "friendly" climb. Did not quite follow the route description here, but instead got on the ridge slightly higher than the indicated notch, in order to avoid sections of snow along the ridge and stay on rock. This resulted in 2 very easy, albeit somewhat loose, pitches to the summit. Descended by rappelling the south side. Note: a single 60-m rope does NOT get you all the way to the glacier on the south side in one rap! Luckily, there is an intermediate anchor available. Alternatively, you can do one rap from the summit to a prominent ledge about 25 feet below the intermediate anchor, and then downclimb what looks like loose 3rd-4th class terrain on descender's left to the glacier. We opted for the former, so cannot vouch for how that would go, but it looked doable, if a bit unpleasant.