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Page Type:
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Trip Report |
|---|---|
Lat/Lon:
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39.07784°N / 0.26711°W |
Date Climbed/Hiked:
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Dec 30, 2005 |
Season:
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Winter |
Eight in the morning, we don’t have to care about schedules; we know there will be a British team behind you at any classic route in the Spanish east coast big limestone walls. It doesn’t matter what time you wake up, they are much more early-risers than we are.
Winter climbing in these walls is a pleasure itself, you can have the breakfast looking to the sea on the balcony of an apartment at Benidorm and then drive towards Finestrat, a Mediterranean village hanged up the hills over the beaches crowded of retired Europeans just in the shade of this huge limestone mountain.
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In fact you can get to the top on foot, but today we chose to climb one of the most beautiful classic climbs of the whole Costa Blanca in its level: El Espolón Central Dsup, max Vº, 500 mts. ( route topo from desnivel.com, area information from rockfax.com)
Nine forty in the morning, we get to the parking lot: La Font del molí (Windmill spring), one more look to the topo.
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The approach follows a trail that climbs up following some switchbacks along a white pine forest and small sharp shrubs.
We can see the wall at any time. By the moment we have walked half of an hour we can already see some parties on the route. “No problem” we think, they are much more ahead of us and the belays are wide. The weather is perfect, and the famous Spanish sun starts to heat us.
Ten fifty. We are at the bottom of the first pitch. Quietly we start the ritual of gearing up: harness, quick draws, slings, cams, nuts, helmet, shoes…climbing!!. Twenty meters further I find the first obstacle: a vertical slaby traverse left, V-, very pretty…
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Third pitch, we catch up the first party behind us. Two British girls, cool! We think, I set up the belay on a ledge right to them. Above me a nice cracked pitch of good limestone. I climb this pitch on the right hand of the other party.
![]()
I share the next belay with the leader of this group and fast I shot climb! To my partner, we have a chance to pass them now, further will be more difficult.
![]()
As we get higher the skyline gets wider, and Benidorm looks like a scale model for us. Three nice pitches over the edge of the spire and the steepness decreases. We are on our “top”, at the end of the difficulties. Over there the rest of the parties behind us are resting looking the impressive landscape in front of them.
From here you can go down with care. It’s the red points descent.
![]()
Following this marks you go finding some fixed wires to belay you up along exposed sections while you down climb. Once you pass this you get to a loose rocky gully (the normal route). When the sun is just over the southwest we get to the forest again. It’s 5:30 p.m. and we are back in the parking lot eight hours later. Tired but happy. Once more time these magic mountains didn’t disappoint us.
Winter climbing in these walls is a pleasure itself, you can have the breakfast looking to the sea on the balcony of an apartment at Benidorm and then drive towards Finestrat, a Mediterranean village hanged up the hills over the beaches crowded of retired Europeans just in the shade of this huge limestone mountain.
In fact you can get to the top on foot, but today we chose to climb one of the most beautiful classic climbs of the whole Costa Blanca in its level: El Espolón Central Dsup, max Vº, 500 mts. ( route topo from desnivel.com, area information from rockfax.com)
Nine forty in the morning, we get to the parking lot: La Font del molí (Windmill spring), one more look to the topo.
The approach follows a trail that climbs up following some switchbacks along a white pine forest and small sharp shrubs.
We can see the wall at any time. By the moment we have walked half of an hour we can already see some parties on the route. “No problem” we think, they are much more ahead of us and the belays are wide. The weather is perfect, and the famous Spanish sun starts to heat us.
Ten fifty. We are at the bottom of the first pitch. Quietly we start the ritual of gearing up: harness, quick draws, slings, cams, nuts, helmet, shoes…climbing!!. Twenty meters further I find the first obstacle: a vertical slaby traverse left, V-, very pretty…
Third pitch, we catch up the first party behind us. Two British girls, cool! We think, I set up the belay on a ledge right to them. Above me a nice cracked pitch of good limestone. I climb this pitch on the right hand of the other party.
I share the next belay with the leader of this group and fast I shot climb! To my partner, we have a chance to pass them now, further will be more difficult.
As we get higher the skyline gets wider, and Benidorm looks like a scale model for us. Three nice pitches over the edge of the spire and the steepness decreases. We are on our “top”, at the end of the difficulties. Over there the rest of the parties behind us are resting looking the impressive landscape in front of them.
From here you can go down with care. It’s the red points descent.
Following this marks you go finding some fixed wires to belay you up along exposed sections while you down climb. Once you pass this you get to a loose rocky gully (the normal route). When the sun is just over the southwest we get to the forest again. It’s 5:30 p.m. and we are back in the parking lot eight hours later. Tired but happy. Once more time these magic mountains didn’t disappoint us.