Started climbing 20 years earlier when signed up to carry loads for a K2 expedition in China; on that tripped I bagged an unclimbed peak we called "6050" - named so from a marking on a map that Eric Shipton made. Upon returning, started learning the technical details of rock climbing and later moved to the Sierra Nevada foothills where I did a lot of modest routes at Donner Summit.
Having a child in 93 slowed things down quite a bit; and when I returned from a 1996 climb in Peru my first son was diagnosed with autism - so I stopped climbing altogether all figured my hobby was over. But after about 8 years I linked up with old friends from the Peru trip and we climbed Denali.
Knowing that the combination of age, raising a disabled child, and career may limit my future climbing I decided to give one "last shot" at some real altitude so I signed up for a commercial expedition.
I still climb lesser peaks like Shasta and as my second son gets older will graduate him from top-roping to moderate alpine routes. My dream is to someday return with him to the top of "6050".
Hi Sergio!
I had a lot of fun climbing the Monch with you!
Yes, I think Ama Dablam would be a great peak - a lot of mixed terrain, more vertically inclined, great views. I hope you can do it someday.
Let's go do a short climb in the Eastern Sierra this summer, after you return from Switzerland. Swiss Arete on Sill?
Cheers, snowflake.
I love this report, I agree with a previous comment about the last paragraph, it makes me really feel the entire report and understand the emotions. It made me think about how I might handle being away from my wife for so long when someday I go to climb one of these peaks. Thanks for posting it!
Your report was thorough and well-written. I found myself sharing many of your emotions even though I have not climbed any 8,000 meter peaks. It is a loss for the readers of your local paper that your report was not published.
Your report is superb! Quoting "I silently name Everest's features as I notice them - the North Ridge, the Great Couloir, the North and South Cols, the Western Cwm and the Lhotse Face."
That there is some fantastic reflection.
vancouver islander - Apr 4, 2009 5:44 pm - Voted 10/10
Great storyNicely written. I agree completely w. d_sorb re the last paragraph. Many thanks for sharing.
Athos791 - Apr 5, 2009 10:11 am - Voted 10/10
awesome reportThanks for writing this, really gives an idea of the emotions one faces while climbing an 8000er.
Noondueler - Apr 5, 2009 10:34 am - Voted 10/10
Thanks for the great report!I commend you for what it takes to climb an 8000 meter peak!
Alan Arnette - Apr 5, 2009 5:58 pm - Voted 10/10
Well Done. Congratsnice TR. like the emotions.
snowflake - Apr 6, 2009 4:23 pm - Hasn't voted
Thanks to all repliesHere's a little background.
Started climbing 20 years earlier when signed up to carry loads for a K2 expedition in China; on that tripped I bagged an unclimbed peak we called "6050" - named so from a marking on a map that Eric Shipton made. Upon returning, started learning the technical details of rock climbing and later moved to the Sierra Nevada foothills where I did a lot of modest routes at Donner Summit.
Having a child in 93 slowed things down quite a bit; and when I returned from a 1996 climb in Peru my first son was diagnosed with autism - so I stopped climbing altogether all figured my hobby was over. But after about 8 years I linked up with old friends from the Peru trip and we climbed Denali.
Knowing that the combination of age, raising a disabled child, and career may limit my future climbing I decided to give one "last shot" at some real altitude so I signed up for a commercial expedition.
I still climb lesser peaks like Shasta and as my second son gets older will graduate him from top-roping to moderate alpine routes. My dream is to someday return with him to the top of "6050".
AJones - Apr 6, 2009 3:38 pm - Voted 10/10
Congratulation!One of my favourite trip reports to date.
TJ311 - Apr 6, 2009 4:11 pm - Voted 10/10
CongratsVery nice trip report!
Norris - Apr 6, 2009 8:15 pm - Hasn't voted
Cho Oyu TRYour local paper definitely should have published this! Outstanding, thanks!
depclimb - Apr 7, 2009 1:58 pm - Hasn't voted
BeautifulGreat trip report snowflake.
snowflake - Apr 8, 2009 2:10 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Maybe one dayHi Sergio!
I had a lot of fun climbing the Monch with you!
Yes, I think Ama Dablam would be a great peak - a lot of mixed terrain, more vertically inclined, great views. I hope you can do it someday.
Let's go do a short climb in the Eastern Sierra this summer, after you return from Switzerland. Swiss Arete on Sill?
Cheers, snowflake.
JesusShoes - Apr 8, 2009 4:03 pm - Voted 10/10
Maybe one dayMaybe one day I will follow in the footsteps.
mjosoba - Apr 9, 2009 1:42 pm - Hasn't voted
Congrats.Nice. That last paragraph was especially meaningful. Thanks for a good read. :)
Brad Marshall - Apr 9, 2009 7:39 pm - Voted 10/10
CongratsSnowflake and great TR.
centrifuge - Apr 10, 2009 12:41 am - Voted 10/10
This is greatI love this report, I agree with a previous comment about the last paragraph, it makes me really feel the entire report and understand the emotions. It made me think about how I might handle being away from my wife for so long when someday I go to climb one of these peaks. Thanks for posting it!
Moogie737 - Apr 13, 2009 2:16 pm - Voted 10/10
Many thanksYour report was thorough and well-written. I found myself sharing many of your emotions even though I have not climbed any 8,000 meter peaks. It is a loss for the readers of your local paper that your report was not published.
attimount - Apr 13, 2009 9:54 pm - Voted 10/10
like a dreamNice trip report, maybe in one day I will have the oportunity to feel the joy you felt on the summit.
Congratulations.
eferesen - May 19, 2009 4:08 pm - Hasn't voted
FantasticYour report is superb! Quoting "I silently name Everest's features as I notice them - the North Ridge, the Great Couloir, the North and South Cols, the Western Cwm and the Lhotse Face."
That there is some fantastic reflection.
snowflake - May 20, 2009 11:46 am - Hasn't voted
Re: FantasticWhen you climb in darkness with a 1 AM start, there is a lot of time for reflection. Thanks for the comments, everyone.