Page Type:
|
Mountain/Rock |
|---|---|
Lat/Lon:
|
55.17705°N / 114.26156°W |
Activities:
|
Mountaineering, Trad Climbing, Ice Climbing, Aid Climbing, Big Wall, Mixed |
Season:
|
Summer, Fall |
Elevation:
|
18008 ft / 5489 m |
|
Overview
Highest peak in Fann Mountains/ Zerafshan range/Pamir-Allai.Getting There
From Dushanbe (capital city) via road.To Alaudin Base Camp: Public jeeps till Sarvoda, from there negotiate jeep up to the Alaudin Base camp.
To Artuch Base Camp: Public jeeps till Ayni or Panjikent. There negotiate jeep up to the camp.
Route
Several routes:"Normal" or Classic route from the Zindon Valley, Russian 2B. High camp at Mirali Pass (aprox 5000). Ice, snow, one rock pitch. Descent same way possible. two days recommended.
Via South East Ridge, Sibirtsev 1936, Russian 4A. Start from the Mutny Lake or from point 4600 below Chimtarga Pass as we did. Mainly rock (up to 6a) and ice/firn slopes up to 65ยบ. Two days recommended or 24 hours "one go push". Descent via abseiling possible.