Sheep Canyon is a very special place in the San Gabriels, where quality rock can be found to support fifth-class climbing. It is also free of trash and graffiti, and most other signs of human passage (save for some slings, 2 biners, and a #2 Tricam we've left ;-) ).

Sheep Canyon's Headwall

The canyon is an excellent place for trad climbing. Topropes could be set up in several areas, but most appear to require a harder trad lead to set up a TR anchor. The nature of the climbing in the area is generally loose, and requires caution so that one does not destroy their belayman's shiny helmet.

Some routes...
+Big Meat Pizza 5.8 R/X
+Headwall Primary Crack (incomplete) 5.7+ X to ?YDS
+Optical Illusion (Single Pitch) 5.8 R/X
+Magical Kimchi (Kimchi Ridge) Class 4 to 5.6

*Please note that any contour lines on any maps the author has come across do not truly represent the terrain up to the headwall. This is a very steep canyon.

Getting There

Hike up the Icehouse Canyon Trail. After a mile, you will reach the intersection with Chapman Trail. Continue on Icehouse Trail for a while, until the trail veers hard right and touches the other side of the canyon. From here, you can see a scree ramp above. Take this up a little, then right, into the large and obvious Sheep Canyon.

Looking down from near the top of the headwall

The majority of the canyon can be hiked up with some class 4 scrambling moves. Further up, rappelling becomes helpful when getting outta town. If rappelling the 260ft headwall, Brennan states a 3-stage rappel is required.

Red Tape

Due to proximity to the Cucamonga Wilderness area boundary, a permit might be a wise decision.

Camping

The best spot to camp in the vicinity is Sheep Flat, near the top of the canyon. This is a large, flat area. Terrain above the canyon levels out rather suddenly. Nearly all terrain above Sheep Canyon is class 1-2.

If forced to camp in the canyon itself, one would best find a bivy ledge or spot that's best protected from rockfall.

Special Equipment

Exploratory hikes require little equipment. If you choose to push on further, your choice of rope for rappelling, and the required equipment for setting up stations is required.

*Always bring a helmet!!!
*If carrying a heavy pack and attempting any line with chockstones, aiders and lightweight hauling ascenders (Ropeman) come in handy for negotiating large, overhanging sections.

External Links

-Christopher Earls Brennen's site on Sheep Canyon

-Brennen's excellent site on canyoneering in the San Gabriels

-San Gabriel Mountain Forum