Lee Vining Canyon contains California's steepest, longest and most consistent ice routes, so much so that it is almost synonymous with California ice climbing. Among the first to climb ice here were Yvon Chouinard and Doug Robinson who made the first ascent on the Main Wall in 1970 using new ice tools Chouinard was creating.

Much of the ice results from a leaking penstock (pipe) that feeds the powerstation.

Getting There

Take CA SR-120 (aka Tioga Road) west from US-395 just south of Lee Vining and about 25 miles north of Mammoth. Follow CA SR-120 for about 3 miles from 395 until just before you reach the closed gate where you will turn left on to Poole Power Plant Road. Then turn immediately right and continue westward up the canyon for about 2 miles until it ends at the Southern CA Edison Power Plant. After a big snowstorm this road may not be plowed (Try checking with the Bridgeport public works department).

Park in a lot about 100 yards away from the station. Do not park in the power station lot!

Hike on to the snow just beyond the chain link fence and up the canyon.

Head generally up into Lee Vining Canyon for about 45 min, depending on snow conditions. There is usually a boot track trail but snow shoes or skis are an option. Ski poles can be handy. Sections of the trail are over snow covered talus so beware of hidden cavities.

Camping, Lodging, Dining

Camping
Use the wide turnout just up canyon of Big Bend Campground (campground closest to the Power Plant). Pretty cold to tent camp in the winter.

Lodging
Try the Lake View Lodge or Murphey's and ask for the "ice climber" special.

Murphey's: (800) 334-6316
Murphey's

Lake View Lodge: (760) 647-6543, (800) 990-6614
Lake View

Dining
Nicely's in Lee Vining is okay for breakfast. Friday night is pizza night. The Tiger Bar in June Lake has very filling Mexican food but can get crowded with skiers. Interesting local color.

External Links & Resources

Climbing community group that schedules trips to Lee Vining:
California Mountaineering Group

Detailed conditions, routes, and professional guides:
Sierra Mountain Guides

Guide Book:
"Eastern Sierra Ice" by SP Parker

Routes

Within the canyon there are numerous ice flows each offering a variety of changing routes.

As you proceed up the canyon on your left there are three major flows.
1) Bard Harrington - 3 pitches
2) Main Wall - sometimes does not come in - 2 pitches
3) Chouinard Falls - 1 pitch

If you continue up the canyon there is some cool low angle ice leading to a half pitch frozen waterfall. To the right of the waterfall are two half pitch flows next to each other that are low angle and good for practice.

On the right side of the canyon across, and a little down from the Bard Harrington, is a mixed climbing area that sometimes forms, although this spot can be in the sun.