Beacon Buttress West Gully

Beacon Buttress West Gully

Page Type Page Type: Route
Additional Information Route Type: Mountaineering
Additional Information Time Required: Half a day
Additional Information Difficulty: F2 ****
Additional Information Number of Pitches: 4
Sign the Climber's Log

Overview

FA: Gavin Raubenheimer, Gavin Peckham. 1 May 2007. Located on Beacon Buttress, on the escarpment face overlooking the path, which leads to the chain-ladders, this route follows a pleasant gully system for four pitches and is on good rock with good protection. 

Getting There

From Sentinel Car Park, follow the Chain-Ladder trail past Sentinel Peak to the base of Beacon Buttress Gully. Scramble up the gully for about 100 metres, until a major grass band appears on the right. Go right along this ledge and past a tricky step-over on rock. Scramble down a few metres, which brings one to the bottom of a huge gully and chimney system. 

Route Description

Start: On the left wall of the chimney system. 1. 30m (E3): Pull up awkwardly into the gully and follow the gully to the right and up a groove system past a piton, till under a steep chimney. 2. 30m (F2): Climb the chimney on good rock with good protection up to a ledge, then climb the short narrow chimney above and exit via a tricky move into a wider area of the main gully. Move up a few metres to belay at a piton on the right. 3. 45m (D): Follow the gully on easy rock and grass. 4. 50m (C): Scramble to the top. Descent (20 min). Scramble down Beacon Buttress Gully to the main path. 

Essential Gear

2 x 50 m half ropes. Full set of nuts. 8 x cams. Quickdraws and slings. 

External Links

http://peakhigh.co.za/