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| Civetta   | 
| Page Type: Area/Range Location: Belluno, Italy, Europe Lat/Lon: 46.38100°N / 12.05300°E Activities: Hiking, Mountaineering, Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing, Aid Climbing, Big Wall, Via Ferrata Season: Spring, Summer Elevation: 10565 ft / 3220 m | Page By: gabriele Created/Edited: Mar 7, 2004 / Nov 10, 2007 Object ID: 152395 Hits: 10688 Loading... Page Score: 90.86% - 31 Votes Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
Overviewthe Civetta group is the most impressive and alpinistic group of the whole Dolomites.
It is delimited by the valle Agordina (west) and the val di Zoldo (east).
Its northern boundary is the forcella Staulanza (dividing this group from the Pelmo group) and the south one is passo Duran.
This group can be divided in some subgroups (see sections)
.. here the huge (1200 m drop) and world famous wall of Civetta : a must for rock climbers just as Walker spur on Grandes Jorasses, North wall of Cima Grande di Lavaredo ecc.
... here many amazing paths for tourists, some ferrate routes for hikers and many climbing routes for very skilled climbers.
Coming here after a climb campaign made (for example) in Brenta Dolomites or Catinaccio or ... can make you feel like a child in front of a giant ! (that's what I experienced)
Famous climbers from Germany, Austria and (of course) Italy came here to open the most difficult rock routes of Dolomites so that this group is also known as Regno del 6° grado (the Kingdom of extreme climbing).
Here you can spend a lot of weeks before you can say you've climbed the best routes ...
Here you will find only some general info in the subgroup sections, nothing about the single summits : each of them needs a page, I hope someone will do it ... and, I hope, adding to this page better photos than mine (old and not fine)
Getting Thereto access the two main valleys you can also use bus services starting from Belluno
valle Agordina : Agordo - Listolade - Masarè - Alleghe (wonderful lake)
val di Zoldo : Longarone - Forno di Zoldo - Zoldo Alto
Huts :
rif. Vazzoler - 1714m - from Listolade (680m) - 3 hours walk
rif. Coldai - 2132m - from Alleghe (983m) 3-4 hours or, better, from Pecol (forcella Staulanza) - in less than 3 hours
rif. Tissi - 2262 - long and difficult to find the path from Masarè (971m) and from Alleghe, the best way to reach it is coming from rif.Vazzoler (2 hours) or from rif. Coldai (less than 2 hours)
central hub
Here the most famous routes on the highest wall of the group :
if you speak about the "Solleder" or the "Comici" to Civetta all climbers immediatly think of wonderful, difficult and striking routes.
I heard that some modern climbers have made them in few hours but if you think that they've been traced in 1925 and 1931 ...
northern branch | Main summits of this chain :
Torre Coldai - 2600 m
Torre d'Alleghe - 2649 m
Torre di Valgrande - 2715 m
Guglia di Valgrande - 2653 m
Pan di Zucchero - 2726 m
Punta Civetta - 2920 m
Punta Tissi - 2992 m |
Wonderful chain with yellow walls, on each summit many difficult routes, some of them has also medium (D/TD) difficulty routes
south-west big ridge | Main summits :
Cima De Gasperi - 2994 m
Cima Su Alto - 2951 m
Cima della Terranova - 2900 m
Torre Su Alto - 2790 m
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Here some "little" routes that requires up to 1100 m drop climbs, none easy nor medium difficulty
Each summit is worth of a dedicated page
south-west branch - "cantoni di Pelsa" | Main summits :
Croda di Pelsa - 2350 m
Torre di Pelsa - 2337 m
Punta Agordo - 2290 m
Torre Venezia - 2337 m
Cima Bancon - 2345 m
Torre di Babele - 2310 m |
The most "human" zone of the group, here climbs can be done even by not extreme climbers.
It is a very "Babele" group, a lot of pinnacles, towers, channels where you can also think to climb a summit and arrive on another one :)
Torre Venezia is the must climbed summit of the group.
south branch - "cantoni della Busazza"
Here 2 famous summits often climbed, Torre Trieste "the Tower of the towers" in the most difficult summit of the Dolomites, with its south wall 700m drop and the "normal" route (used only for coming down) that is far more difficult than Campanile Basso
Moiazza group | Main summits :
Cima della Moiazzetta della Grava - 2727 m
Cima delle Sasse - 2878 m
Cima Moiazza nord - 2870 m
Cima Moiazza sud - 2878 m
Cima delle Masenade - 2740 m |
This group belongs geographically to Civetta group but is always (in climbing environments) considered apart from it.
It has a big wall facing the Val Corpassa (the valley that you must run to reach rif. Vazzoler from Listolade).
.. climbing or hiking pics ...please put here your (welcome) photos, I'll maintain sections just for them ! :))
Booksan old friend of mine made me the gift of the (he says) best climbing book about this group, after giving a good look to it I think he is right.
Oscar Kelemina - Civetta - Scuola di Alpinismo C.Capuis - CAI Mestre
this book was published in 1970 and we think there's no possibility to get a copy ...
you can always try :)
Dal Bianco V.Angelini G."CIVETTA MOIAZZA" - Bologna 1984 - € 14,46 available in this site
a report from Gangolf (in German language)
Dolomiten Civettagruppe - Andreas Kubin - Alpenvereinsführer - Bergverlag Rudolf Rother (1980) - ISBN: 3 7633 2308 2
When To Climbstarting from june for Cantoni di Pelsa,
from July to September for all the other subgroups
Campingcampings in the Val di Zoldo, useless for climbing, very fine for tourists and hikers
Images
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