goleary - Jun 29, 2016 12:07 pm - Hasn't voted
ConfusedJust summited this past weekend via that snow you mention in the caption. Someone climbing the south side of the block told us that was the scramble route (right side snow) but it definitely felt like low 5th to me once we got closer to the top. Where does the true scramble route head if not that way?
The mountain page says: "The route corkscrews around the summit from the south, to the east side, and at the very end onto it's north side for the last section." I'm a bit confused.
Brian Jenkins - Jun 30, 2016 12:26 am - Hasn't voted
Re: ConfusedSorry, it's been 9 years since this so the memory is a bit vague. But I think I agree with you that the route through the snow was 5th class closer to the top. As best as I remember, we traversed the summit pinnacle to head up from the south (left in this photo). I believe this photo is looking at it from the northeast. We climbed the south ridge and rapped down on the east side. Can't comment on the mountain page info as I didn't write that and agree it is confusing. We just climbed up from the south on the rock. No corkscrewing involved when we did it. Hope this helps.
Josh Lewis - Jul 26, 2016 5:32 am - Voted 10/10
Re: ConfusedMy page contains a map that shows this section as seen here. Keep in mind the conditions will always influence the difficulty of a route. I climbed it once with mixed/sloppy conditions which made it really sketchy. Made me want to cry. Class 4 can be undoubtingly sketchy when snow is present. When dry it's an easy climb. My ratings are well in tune with common consensus of a given route as well as having a pretty thorough understanding of the YDS rating scale. I'm aware that as difficult terrain becomes easier one must pay closer attention to difficulty dropping. I've climbed Sahale multiple times which has helped confirm the class 4 difficulty.
As for where to go, the instructions are concise and tell you exactly where you need to go. It's not a simple "go up this gully", it's a corkscrew route at the end which makes it trickier to understand. Indeed most of the route is on the south side from Cascade Pass until after the glacier. From here you go onto the right side of the summit (east side). I suppose I should have been more specific about how long the north side section is. There is a decent chance that I may re-climb it again this summer to get a very accurate measurement of how long you scramble on the north side.
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