...please take a look at my Arbengrat page on SP and let me know if it needs correction/updates. I did the traverse 3 years ago, in a party of 3, way too slow, we arrived at the Rothorn hutte at 10pm, but a great experience.
Looking at a map the Obergabelhorn looks really SMALL compared to the Matterhorn ! How do you rate the overall difficulty/commitment of the Matterhorn compared to the Obergabelhorn ?
The Zinalrothorn is next on my list ...
The page is excellent. On the Big Gendarme, we did a crest/direct version to the top, which in another book was rated IV+ (if memory serves). You might mention that, plus there is a protection bolt halfway up that variant that people might see and be tempted over there...if they do they should know that the difficulty does top out at IV+ (some nut protection near the crux).
I think the Ober Gabelhorn is a bit more difficult than the Matterhorn normal way. Much less fixed protection around, no bivouac hut along the way for tired parties on descent. If traversing the mountain, then the long and tricky descent is surprisingly time-consuming. Add to all this way less people around and the Ober Gabelhorn has a more remote, committing feeling. The only upside is that it's not as big of a climb elevation-wise.
Hi Nyle, no, I'm afraid not...I'm 40 though sometimes I do feel 90 :). I did climb the Matterhorn though a couple of years, ago and wrote about it here. It was a pretty excellent time.
Thank you for this fine trip report with some really great pictures. The Obergabelhorn traverse seems to have been a challenging trip even for you. For me it was (in 2004) sort of a turning point: Not beeing an experienced rock climber and roped in a party of 3 we were (on a day with similar conditions as you had) way too slow, missed the right time to turn around and reached the summit already in the afternoon. When evening came we were still at app. 4000m at the NE crest and were facing an unplesant bivuoac with a rather bad weather forecast for the next day. One of us lost his nerves and called the rescue. A helicopter picked us up. I still feel ashamed about that. But that day showed me that I am not made for mountains of that difficulty and I have lowered my alpine goals (concerning difficulties) a lot since then.
Hi Mathias, that is a tough story to go through but I'm glad it all worked out okay. Indeed, the abseils down the ridge seemed to take forever, and then it was even more tiring traversing to the Gendarme and finally up to the Wellenkuppe. You guys certainly would have spent the night out up there and remember that with a bad weather forecast the helicopter probably couldn't fly. It wasn't a bad decision to call.
Good lesson learned, thanks for sharing Mathias. There is so much to do in the alpine country, the goal is to gather amazing experiences and return safely. You can leave out grim, exhausting icy descents for a while! :)
story and great pics - thanks for sharing it.
And good luck for the Weißhorn next time - it really is an incredible mountain even on the normal route (you "old man" will for sure do the north to east traverse I daresay - or will it be the Schaligrat?).
Cheers, Michael
hiltrud.liu - Nov 9, 2011 12:58 pm - Voted 10/10
Fantastic panoramas...Your photos are wonderful, fantastic, Michael!
Congratulations on your trip success!
Cheers, Hiltrud
mvs - Nov 9, 2011 1:56 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Fantastic panoramas...Thanks Hiltrud, I can see why Rahel loved this mountain. I want to go back for the Nordwand next year, now that I know the descent.
hansw - Nov 9, 2011 2:08 pm - Voted 10/10
Great pictures!When people see your great pictures I predict that Wallis will see plenty of SPers the next season.
/Hans
mvs - Nov 9, 2011 2:12 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Great pictures!Thanks, it'll make for nice evenings in the huts! The Swiss are quite close-lipped. :D
alpinpete - Nov 9, 2011 4:04 pm - Voted 10/10
Superfantastico!If I had to describe this trip in one word, that's what it would be. Thanks for the good climbs, amigo ;)
mvs - Nov 10, 2011 3:27 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Superfantastico!Thanks Pete, we'll have to plan the next one! The Weisshorn awaits...
marckia - Nov 18, 2011 9:23 pm - Voted 10/10
Re: Superfantastico!Hi Pete,
Such a nice trip report, you did not tell me about the "German girls" part :-)
Marc
alpinpete - Nov 20, 2011 5:45 am - Voted 10/10
Re: Superfantastico!Thanks! Michael deserves the credit. It's nice to see ladies out and about, don't you agree? ;)
as - Nov 14, 2011 11:29 am - Voted 10/10
thanks......for refreshing my recollections !
mvs - Nov 14, 2011 4:15 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: thanks...*shock* you mean what we did wasn't incredibly novel and original?!? :D Some classics just don't go out of style, I think! Thanks for dropping by.
as - Nov 15, 2011 4:34 am - Voted 10/10
Re: thanks......please take a look at my Arbengrat page on SP and let me know if it needs correction/updates. I did the traverse 3 years ago, in a party of 3, way too slow, we arrived at the Rothorn hutte at 10pm, but a great experience.
Looking at a map the Obergabelhorn looks really SMALL compared to the Matterhorn ! How do you rate the overall difficulty/commitment of the Matterhorn compared to the Obergabelhorn ?
The Zinalrothorn is next on my list ...
mvs - Nov 15, 2011 2:17 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: thanks...The page is excellent. On the Big Gendarme, we did a crest/direct version to the top, which in another book was rated IV+ (if memory serves). You might mention that, plus there is a protection bolt halfway up that variant that people might see and be tempted over there...if they do they should know that the difficulty does top out at IV+ (some nut protection near the crux).
I think the Ober Gabelhorn is a bit more difficult than the Matterhorn normal way. Much less fixed protection around, no bivouac hut along the way for tired parties on descent. If traversing the mountain, then the long and tricky descent is surprisingly time-consuming. Add to all this way less people around and the Ober Gabelhorn has a more remote, committing feeling. The only upside is that it's not as big of a climb elevation-wise.
as - Nov 16, 2011 8:57 am - Voted 10/10
Re: thanks...Thanks Michael, done !
Nyle Walton - Nov 14, 2011 11:41 am - Hasn't voted
Are you really 91 years old?Why don't you climb the Matterhorn next.
mvs - Nov 14, 2011 4:12 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Are you really 91 years old?Hi Nyle, no, I'm afraid not...I'm 40 though sometimes I do feel 90 :). I did climb the Matterhorn though a couple of years, ago and wrote about it here. It was a pretty excellent time.
Mathias Zehring - Nov 14, 2011 6:02 pm - Voted 10/10
memoriesThank you for this fine trip report with some really great pictures. The Obergabelhorn traverse seems to have been a challenging trip even for you. For me it was (in 2004) sort of a turning point: Not beeing an experienced rock climber and roped in a party of 3 we were (on a day with similar conditions as you had) way too slow, missed the right time to turn around and reached the summit already in the afternoon. When evening came we were still at app. 4000m at the NE crest and were facing an unplesant bivuoac with a rather bad weather forecast for the next day. One of us lost his nerves and called the rescue. A helicopter picked us up. I still feel ashamed about that. But that day showed me that I am not made for mountains of that difficulty and I have lowered my alpine goals (concerning difficulties) a lot since then.
mvs - Nov 15, 2011 2:55 am - Hasn't voted
Re: memoriesHi Mathias, that is a tough story to go through but I'm glad it all worked out okay. Indeed, the abseils down the ridge seemed to take forever, and then it was even more tiring traversing to the Gendarme and finally up to the Wellenkuppe. You guys certainly would have spent the night out up there and remember that with a bad weather forecast the helicopter probably couldn't fly. It wasn't a bad decision to call.
Good lesson learned, thanks for sharing Mathias. There is so much to do in the alpine country, the goal is to gather amazing experiences and return safely. You can leave out grim, exhausting icy descents for a while! :)
reinhard2 - Nov 17, 2011 8:07 am - Voted 10/10
Againa nice trip report -
with stunning pics -
by one of my favorite writers!
mvs - Nov 18, 2011 9:25 am - Hasn't voted
Re: AgainThank you Reinhard, I appreciate it! May your adventures continue.
selinunte01 - Nov 18, 2011 1:22 pm - Voted 10/10
Wonderfulstory and great pics - thanks for sharing it.
And good luck for the Weißhorn next time - it really is an incredible mountain even on the normal route (you "old man" will for sure do the north to east traverse I daresay - or will it be the Schaligrat?).
Cheers, Michael